24 Glorious, Food-Filled Hours in Greenpoint (2023)

It’s possible to spend 24 hours dining and drinking through any New York City neighborhood. Obvious choices include the West and East Villages, Lower East Side, and Williamsburg — but Greenpoint offers a more low-key, but still very-NYC experience. The North Brooklyn neighborhood is not overrun by tourists, which makes it an ideal place for visitors and locals alike to see a slice of NYC not as popularized as Times Square or even the Upper West Side.

The historically Polish neighborhood still has some longtime traditional restaurants serving up pierogies and the like, but it’s also full of compelling restaurants with modern takes on everything from Jewish deli fare to Vietnamese noodle soup. Here’s how to spend a spectacularly delicious day in Greenpoint.

Breakfast: Frankel’s

Frankel’s

This three-year-old Jewish deli has fit right into NYC’s appetizing culture, one that celebrates bagels and lox, smoky pastrami, and all variants of cream cheese. Any sandwich at Frankel’s will do — varieties include ones with pastrami salmon, whitefish salad, and Taylor ham — but the pastrami is the winner here. It’s “as bright pink, salty, and smoky as the revered product at Katz’s,” Eater critic Robert Sietsema says. Get it with egg and cheese on a challah roll or bagel to fortify for the day ahead. 631 Manhattan Avenue, at Bedford Avenue

Morning activity: Walk along WNYC Transmitter Park and then peruse Archestratus Books + Food

A long walk should feel in order after downing a breakfast sandwich, so mosey over to WNYC Transmitter Park, a 6.61-acre park on the end of the neighborhood. Take in the clear shot of the Manhattan skyline along the stroll, including a selfie if necessary, but keep in mind this isn’t the destination. That’s Archestratus Books + Food, a cookbook store and cafe that’s a lovely place to spend a morning. Food likely won’t be a priority after a Frankel’s sandwich, but Archestratus stocks up on Sicilian baked goods. It’s especially known for its rainbow cookies. Buy a few for the next day after exploring shelves upon shelves of vintage and current cookbooks. 160 Huron Street, near Sgt. Nicholas Aleman Way

Lunch: Krolewskie Jadlo

Krolewskie Jadlo/Yelp

Greenpoint has a strong Polish history, so the day would not be complete without a stop for a plate of pierogies and other specialties. Krolewskie Jadlo is one of three restaurants owned by Nobu-trained restaurateur Krzysztof Drzewiecki, and it’s the most food-focused one. A very well-priced weekday lunch special serves two courses for just $11, with soup options like borscht and tomato followed by stuffed cabbage, grilled sausage, or pierogies. The decor is very Medieval pub, with beers for just $4.50. 694 Manhattan Avenue, at Norman Avenue

Lunch dessert: Peter Pan

There are plenty of newfangled doughnuts in town now, but Peter Pan is not that — and it’s worth visiting because of it. It’s a neighborhood icon, open since the ’50s, that traffics in classics; think glazed, cream-filled, sprinkles, old-fashioned, and sour cream cake, all of them platonic ideals of the genre. The doughnuts are all stacked on pans behind the counter, which has limited bar seats for a coffee and a pastry, and servers decked out in very retro-looking teal and pink outfits bring items out. The space is tight, though. The best call is to grab a selection of treats — the more straightforward options shine — and head out to walk and eat. Bring cash. 727 Manhattan Avenue, between Meserole and Norman avenues

Afternoon activity: Museum of Food and Drink

This museum dedicated to exploring the world of food punches above its weight. Though it’s small, Museum of Food and Drink’s exhibits are thoughtful and interactive ways to learn about history and issues surrounding food. Currently, the museum looks at Chinese American restaurants and their nearly 170-year history in the United States — with nuggets about the way that they’ve evolved and tastings from chefs of popular restaurants such as MáLà Project. Note: The museum is only open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and it’s best to buy tickets in advance. A general ticket costs $14, and a special admission with a dim sum meal and dessert costs $25. 62 Bayard Street, between Leonard and Lorimer streets

Mid-afternoon snack: Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop

Alex Staniloff/Eater

Fancy slice shops are all the rage across New York right now, which is great for people who love to eat thoughtful pizza but prefer the more casual vibe of slice shops. Greenpoint has a version of this in Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop, a nostalgic counter-service spot from the man behind the constantly busy Neopolitan pizza restaurant Paulie Gee’s down the street. Classic New York-style pies reign at the slice shop, with modern additions like roni cups and Mike’s Hot Honey. Critic Ryan Sutton finds the crust particularly complex, “a curious blend of smokiness and toastiness, rounded out by a whiff of sweetness.” Grab it to go, or sit in one of the orange booths in the back with a beer. Note: It’s closed between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. on weekdays. 110 Franklin Street, at Noble Street

Drinks: Tørst

Daniel Krieger/Eater

One of NYC’s most acclaimed beer bars is located in Greenpoint. Tørst comes from the owner of cult-favorite Denmark brewery Evil Twin, and the spare space reflects that. Multiple of the 21 color-coded taps are from the company, with other rare options from both the area and abroad. Beer geeks will go nuts at this place, a sedate pre-dinner spot to prep for some pho. 615 Manhattan Avenue, near Nassau Avenue

Dinner: Di An Di

Alex Staniloff/Eater

Alex Staniloff/Eater NY

Settle in for a lively meal at Di An Di, one of the top restaurants in the city in part due to chef Dennis Ngo’s creative spin on Vietnamese American food. The regularly changing menu features lots of noodle soups — including a luscious pho ga, made with chicken bone broth — and fun smaller dishes that are easy to for the table to split, such as a Vietnamese “pizza” made with grilled crispy rice paper that diners cut with luxurious gold scissors. Go for a cocktail here, like the gin-based Vietnamese 69, which has ginger, grapefruit, mint, and rosé. It gets slammed at primetime, so try to make a reservation or prepare to wait. No need to dress to impress, but be aware that Di An Di is one of those places where it seems like everyone is hot. 68 Greenpoint Avenue, between Franklin and West streets

Drinks: Sunshine Laundromat

Locals can still do their laundry at Sunshine, but it’s best known for being a pinball and craft beer destination, attracting a clientele that shows up without dirty clothes at all. True pinball diehards go for a selection of machines curated by owner Peter Rose, who started adding pinball machines due to a personal love for collecting them. Sunshine now boasts one of the greatest collections in the city, including rare and vintage ones. The pinball dabbler won’t feel out of place, though — there are also board games to entertain a group. Just walk through the laundromat to get to the bar portion, and remember to bring quarters. 860 Manhattan Avenue, between Milton and Noble streets

Late-night: Good Room

Though Greenpoint is generally a low-key neighborhood to go out, there is in fact a club suited to a night out of dancing. Good Room often lands big DJs and lists its lineup online, plus links to buy tickets ahead of time. It’s Brooklyn and boasts a no-discrimination policy, avoiding the exclusivity traps that plague some of Manhattan’s bigger clubs. And the club has multiple rooms; anyone who’s sick of the bigger “Good Room” can head to the smaller “Bad Room,” which is often hosting a totally different DJ. Note: Once exiting, there’s no re-entry. 98 Meserole Avenue, near Manhattan Avenue